Tokyo: A Lonely Planet Guidebook (2012)

The ninth edition of Lonely Planet’s guidebook for Tokyo – written by Timothy Hornyak and Rebecca Milner - was published in August 2012. The book is divided into four main sections. Here is a brief overview:

** Section 1: Plan Your Trip

There are 14 chapters in this section, including the following: Eating, Drinking & Nightlife, Entertainment, and Shopping

** Section 2: Explore Tokyo

There are 15 chapters in this section, including the following: Day Trips from Tokyo and Sleeping

** Section 3: Understand Tokyo

There are 6 chapters in this section, including the following: History, Arts, and Architecture

** Section 4: Survival Guide

There are 3 chapters in this section: Transport, Directory A-Z, and Language. In addition there is a general index plus six sub-indexes.

Twelve maps at the end of the book cover different areas of the city. The book comes with a pull-out map: on one side a map of central Tokyo; on the other side a map of the Tokyo subway (a subway map is very important; you will not be able to get around in Tokyo without consulting this map, again and again).

This book tells you what to see and what to do when you are in Tokyo. It gives you information about restaurants and hotels and about how to get around in Tokyo.

It presents the majors sights of Tokyo, for instance Meiji Jingu (a Shinto shrine, page 116), Senso-ji (a Buddhist temple, page 168-169), Tokyo Tower (an old monument, page 82), and Tokyo Sky Tree (a new monument, page 170).

I had it with me on a recent trip to Japan. During this trip I was able to test the quality and the value of the information in the book. In my opinion, it is helpful and useful. But there are some flaws. In addition, there are some cases where the information given should be expanded and/or updated. Here are some examples:

*** Regarding smoking:

“The majority of Tokyo’s night spots allow smoking” (page 45).

This is true, but not the whole story. Many restaurants and coffee shops are divided into 2 sections, one for smokers and one for non-smokers. Almost half the space of the place may be devoted to smokers, even if there are only 2 or 3 of them present. Consequently, the space for non-smokers is limited. Sometimes you will have to wait in line, because the non-smoking section is full, while the smoking section is almost empty. What about the staff? They must work in both sections! In some respects Japan is a very modern society. But in other respects it is very old-fashioned. This topic is a case in point. Lonely Planet should give us the whole story about smoking in Japan.

*** Regarding tips:

“Despite the high quality of customer service in Japan, it is not customary to tip” (page 261).

This formulation is not quite accurate. Tipping is simply not accepted. It seems tipping is regarded as an insult. Lonely Planet should be more precise.

*** How to call the waiter in a restaurant:

In the western world we look up and try to catch the waiter’s attention. Sometimes we raise our arm and wave it. We are not always successful. In Tokyo there is a modern solution to this problem: many restaurants have a small device on the table. It is an electronic bell. When you are ready to order, just press the bell. The waiter can see which table is calling, and he will show up at your table. This system seems to be quite common in Tokyo (but we did not see it in Kyoto). Lonely Planet does not mention this system.

*** Regarding Tokyo Sky Tree:

This monument is presented on page 170. There is a picture of it on page 173. The information about this monument is very brief, perhaps because the tower opened in May 2012, just before the deadline of the book expired. In addition, the prices have been raised since the book was published. Here are the current prices:

* Platform one = pay 2,060 yen

* Platform two = pay an additional 1,030 yen

The tower is very popular. This means you cannot just walk in and buy a ticket. On a busy day, there is a complicated system for buying your ticket:

(1) Stand in line to get a numbered card with a time slot

(2) When the time has come, stand in line to buy your ticket to platform one
(3) Stand in line to enter a lift to platform one
(4) Take the lift to platform one

If you wish to go further, you must complete the following steps:

(5) Stand in line to buy a ticket to platform two

(6) Buy your ticket
(7) Stand in line to enter a lift
(8) Take the lift to platform two

When you wish to return to the ground, the process is reversed, although you do not have to buy a ticket to go down.

If you want to visit the tower on a busy day – i.e. a day with nice and clear weather – you must be prepared to spend 3-4 perhaps even 5-6 hours on a visit to this monument, which is at the moment the tallest tower in the world. If you ask me, the view from platform two is not better than the view from platform one. My advice: go to platform one. Do not bother with platform two. Save your time and money for something else.

*** Regarding transport in Tokyo:

This topic is covered on pp. 252-257. The reader is advised to buy a special card which can be used on the subway and the bus in the Tokyo area: the Passmo card, issued by the subway, and the Suica card, issued by JR. This advice is sound. On page 256 we are told: “You can replenish the value of the cards as needed at stations.”

This is not quite accurate. In the subway, you can always top up a Passmo card. But you cannot always top up a Suica card, because the machine by the exit will not accept it. In some stations there are two machines: one for the Passmo card, and one for the Suica card. If you have the Suica card, be sure to top up when you see a machine that accepts the card. Otherwise you will have a problem, if your balance is too low to pay your fare. Lonely Planet does not give you this warning.

Incidentally, the Suica card can also be used on the subway in Kyoto, but for some reason it is not valid on the bus in Kyoto.

[For more information about Kyoto, see Kyoto: A Lonely Planet Guidebook.]

*** Regarding the Yakusini Shrine:

This (highly controversial) monument is covered on page 141. Behind the main building there is an area which is sometimes used for sumo-wrestling. When we were there, we noticed that many visitors walked to the right of the main building and then disappeared. When we followed them, we came to the sumo-wrestling area where a large audience was watching a large group of sumo-wrestlers. Clearly, the Japanese knew of this event. Access was free. Personally I am not fond of this sport, but it is a part of Japanese culture and history. Sumo-wrestling is mentioned on pp. 170-171 in connection with another location. Lonely Planet does not mention the area behind the Yakusini Shrine.

*** Regarding Tokyo National Museum:

This place is presented on page 158. The authors say: “If you visit only one museum in Tokyo, make it this one.” I agree. This is a great museum. It is an excellent choice on a rainy day. The prices listed in the book need to be updated: an adult must now pay 620 yen, while a student must now pay 410 yen. A senior and a child may enter for free, but Lonely Planet does not tell us how these categories are defined. An adult is 70 years and older, while a child is younger than 18.

What about a camera? Can I use a camera inside the museum? Lonely Planet does not say anything about this topic. I am happy to tell you that you are allowed to use a camera inside the museum (but no flash and no tripod).

*** Regarding the Tsukiji Fish Market:

This place is described on pp. 68-69. It is presented a one of the top sights in Tokyo. But the attraction of this sight is overrated, and the information given in the book is misleading.

The text says the main action takes place between 5 and 8 AM. Therefore the reader is advised to show up early. We arrived one morning at 7 AM. When we tried to enter a hall, we were told to go to the next hall. When we tried to enter the next hall, a local guard walked up to us and showed us a sign which said in English: “Do not enter this area before 9 AM.” He told us to get out. Not only that. He followed us all the way to make sure that we actually left the place. When we wanted to stop for a second to take a picture, he shouted: “No pictures!”

Many Japanese are very polite and friendly with foreigners. This guy was not one of them.

The next day we returned to the marked after 9 AM. There was nothing much to see. My advice: The Namiyoke Inari Shrine next to the market is an interesting place. Do not waste your time on the fish market.

*** Regarding Senso-ji:

This temple is presented on pp. 168-169. Regarding transport to the temple the reader is told to take the Ginza line to Asakusa station and to use exit # 1. In fact the correct exit is # A4.

*** Regarding maps:

(a) There is no map of Japan in this book. I would like to see where Tokyo is in relation to the rest of the country.

(b) The 12 maps of different areas of Tokyo do not touch each other. This means several areas of the city are not covered by any map.

(c) The fold-out map covers only the central part of Tokyo. Lonely Planet should give us a better (i.e. a more comprehensive) map than this.

I have written to Lonely Planet to tell them about these flaws. I hope they will be corrected in the next edition of the guidebook.

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Timothy Hornyak and Rebecca Milner,

Tokyo: Lonely Planet,

Ninth edition, August 2012, 304 pages 

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Kyoto: A Lonely Planet Guidebook (2012)

The fifth edition of Lonely Planet’s guidebook for Kyoto – written by Chris Rowthorn – was published in February 2012. The book is divided into four main sections. Here is a brief overview:

*** Section 1: Plan Your Trip
There are 15 chapters in this section, including the following: Eating, Drinking & Nightlife, Entertainment, Shopping, plus Temples & Shrines

*** Section 2: Explore Kyoto

There are 11 chapters in this section, including the following: Day Trips from Kyoto and Sleeping

*** Section 3: Understand Kyoto

There are 6 chapters in this section, including the following: History, Arts & Crafts, Architecture & Gardens, plus the Tea Ceremony

*** Section 4: Survival Guide

There are 3 chapters in this section: Transport, Directory A-Z, and Language. In addition there is a general index plus six sub-indexes

Nine maps at the end of the book cover different areas of the city. The book comes with a pull-out map: on one side a map of central Kyoto; on the other side a map of the Kyoto transport system (such a map is important; you will not be able to get around in Kyoto without consulting it).

This book tells you what to see and what to do when you are in Kyoto. It gives you information about restaurants and hotels and tells you how to get around in Kyoto.

It presents the majors sights of Kyoto, for instance:

* Kyoto Tower – page 51

* Nishiki Market – page 56
* Kyoto Imperial Palace Park – page 71

* Fushimi-Inari-Taisha Shrine – page 76

* Kiyomizu-dera Temple – page 81
* Nanzen-ji – page 94

* Ginkakuji – “the Silver Pavilion” – page 95

* Kinkakuji – “the Golden Pavilion” – page 106
* Nijo Castle – page 107

I had it with me on a recent trip to Japan. During this trip I was able to test the quality and the value of the information in the book. In my opinion, it is helpful and useful. But there are some flaws, and some information needs to be updated:

** Visiting Kiyomizu-dera. How can I get there? Lonely Planet tells me to take bus # 100 or # 202 from Kyoto Station. The correct numbers are 100 and 206.

** Visiting Nanzen-ji. How much must I pay to enter the Hojo Garden and the San-mon Gate? Lonely Planet says I must pay 500 yen to enter the former and 300-400 yen to enter the latter. The correct fee is 300 yen for the garden and 500 yen for the gate.

** Public transport: on some buses you pay a flat fare, i.e. the fare does not depend on the distance that you travel. Lonely Planet says the fare is 220 yen. But the price has been raised since the book was published, and now it is 230 yen.

** You can use a Suica card on the subway in Kyoto, but for some reason it is not valid on the bus in Kyoto. The Suica card, which is issued by JR, can be used on the subway and bus in Tokyo. Chris Rowthorn does not mention the Suica card in his section about local transport (pp. 184-189).

** Taxes and refunds: on page 195 we are told: “There is a 5 % consumption tax on retail purchases in Japan.” In the spring of 2014 this tax was raised to 8 per cent, which means the price of (almost) everything went up.

** The Byodo-in Temple in Uji is presented on pp. 125-126. In September 2012 the Phoenix Hall of this temple was closed down for a renovation project which lasted one and a half year. In April 2014 the hall was opened to the public again. The Phoenix Hall, which is depicted on the Japanese 10 yen coin, can accept up to 50 visitors at a time. Each tour is limited to 20 minutes. Admission to the hall is 300 yen, on top of the regular admission to the temple area, which is 600 yen. Obviously, this renovation project is not mentioned in the book, since it began after the book was published.

** While presenting the Fushimi-Inari-Taisha Shrine, the author mentions a pathway that runs for ca. 4 km around the mountain, but fails to give any details about it. The reader needs to know the following: the route from the main shrine to marker # 6 can be completed in ca. 30 minutes. At this point a circular route begins (and ends). The circular route comprises markers # 8 to # 17. The circular route can be completed in ca. 60 minutes (clock-wise or counter-clockwise). The route from marker # 6 and back to the main shrine can be completed in ca. 30 minutes.

In other words: You can complete the whole trail in ca. 2 hours, depending on how fast you walk.

The author should provide more information about the pathway. In addition, he should provide a map which shows the route around the mountain, so the reader knows what he or she is in for.

** The Toji Temple is mentioned in a brief sentence on page 51: “Even near Kyoto Station, you’ll see the lovely pagoda at Toji temple…”

One sentence! That is all. How can the author think this is enough? Moreover, the description of the location is a bit odd. The temple is not exactly “near Kyoto Station.” It is located southwest of the station: ca. 2 km to the south and ca. 2 km to the west.

This temple – one of the oldest and most important in Kyoto - deserves a proper presentation. Furthermore, the location of the temple should be shown on one of the maps in the book.

Having made these critical comments I would like to add some positive words as well:

(1) On page 30 there is a brief paragraph on tipping: “There is no tipping in restaurants or cafes.” This is true. I wish to praise the author for this message: it is short and clear - and accurate. Tokyo: A Lonely Planet Guidebook says tipping is “not customary,” which is not accurate. It seems the author of the Kyoto book is better informed than the authors of the Tokyo book.

(2) On pp. 191-192 there is a section about the internet and how to go online in Kyoto. The author issues a warning here: perhaps it is not as easy as you think. There is wi-fi almost everywhere, but in most cases it is not free. I wish to praise the author for giving this warning. It is good to know and good to be prepared. One way to deal with this matter is to make sure you always choose a hotel that offers free wi-fi. We followed this approach and we were not disappointed. Every hotel we stayed in had wi-fi, it was free, and it worked well.

(3) On page 193 there is a section about how to pay in Kyoto: with cash or with a credit card. The author issues a warning here: “Japan is a cash society!” Credit cards are only accepted in expensive hotels and department stores. Always carry enough cash to pay for what you need. I wish to praise the author for giving this warning. It is good to know and good to be prepared. One way to deal with this matter is to make sure you always choose a hotel that accepts credit cards. It does not have to be a five star hotel. Before you enter a restaurant, ask if they accept credit cards. If they do not, find another venue that does. During our stay in Japan I was surprised to see that many places – even small establishments - were in fact ready to accept my credit card. But this was a good surprise, not a bad surprise.

(4) On page 52 the author tells us that if you go to floor 11 of Kyoto Station building you will find a fine collection of restaurants, not only Japanese, but also Korean and western style. You would never guess this when you are standing on the ground floor of this building.

On the same page the author mentions Yodobashi Camera, a tall building located a few minutes’ walk north of Kyoto Station. On floor 8 of this building there is another fine collection of restaurants. You would never guess this when you are standing in front of the building.

I wish to praise the author for providing this valuable information about where to go for dinner.

I have written to Lonely Planet to tell them about the negative and positive elements I have found in the book. I hope the flaws will be corrected in the next edition.

How many stars does this book deserve?

It is obvious to compare this book about Kyoto with Lonely Planet’s book about Tokyo. In both volumes I see some positive and negative elements, but when I compare them, I think the flaws of the latter are more serious than the flaws of the former. Therefore I will give the Kyoto book a rating of five stars.

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Chris Rowthorn,

Kyoto: Lonely Planet,

Fifth edition, February 2012, 232 pages

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